tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-114986860901378632024-03-13T06:56:28.453-07:00Building a 34 ft Lyle Hess Falmouth CutterKaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.comBlogger63125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-17950724502428597042020-04-13T15:24:00.002-07:002020-06-17T15:38:31.311-07:00Best Wishes for Everyone I wanted to wish everyone the best through this terrible pandemic and economic crisis that is affecting us all in ways we did not foresee but should have only months ago. Stay strong, keep safe, keep dreaming, we shall somehow pass through this. Never a better time to be at sea.<br />
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KajKaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-70093463014459175072019-09-16T05:19:00.002-07:002022-02-14T03:14:44.624-08:003D Video and some summer photosThis past July we did a 3D interactive video of the interior and deck of Astrid. The link can be found at the broker webpage:<br />
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<a href="https://www.customyachtsales.com/sail-listings/">Custom Yacht sales</a><br />
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The price has also been adjusted to $375,000CAD which is about $290, 000 USD at current exchange rate. You just need to add sails.<br />
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I did my summer varnishing at the anchor this year instead of at the dock. I little more work but way more pleasant. The work is easy to keep up as I use a lot of covers. Life has left me with little time for the boat right now, two young boys under two years old, living and work, I spend my "spare time" making sure Astrid is looked after with little left to actually use. I get asked so much about how it feels to sell her and that is a difficult question. One I am reluctant to actually answer but of course, it is not easy with mixed feelings. I first saw a 28ft Bristol Channel Cutter when I was 19 years old and right away it appealed to me as the perfect boat. I just loved it and in the following years I toted around a couple of dog eared Wooden Boat magazines, one that featured Lyle Hess and also an issue that featured the 30 ft Lyle Hess "Tenacity". I grew up with Wooden boat magazines as my Dad had bought them since day one and now I have them. I read all the Pardy books of course as well as the Hiscock's. Rebuilt my Stone Horse cutter always wanting it to be a Hess design! So it took until my mid-30's before I stared building Astrid and I dedicated almost a decade of time to building her, obsessing over every detail of construction. She turned out to be everything I hoped for and when I am aboard I seriously could just stay there, happy to be aboard and content to look after her and be in the beautiful BC coastal environment. But one thing I have learned in life is it is impossible to predict what will happen next. I plan for one thing and another happens and it is usually all good or will turn out that way in the end. Things just change and the quest for a simple life continues. There are new adventures, new projects, smaller boats, skiing, hiking and canoeing, things to discover and teach my two young boys. In the end I just can't afford to keep Astrid unless it alone is the way of life and that is a different life which is not right for our family right now. I feel good that I was able to achieve what I did, was able to finish her and even have a short while with her. So she waits for the right owner who can take her on the adventures she was built for.<br />
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Here are a few pictures of this summer.<br />
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<br />Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-40850333540987625202019-04-13T13:05:00.000-07:002019-04-14T12:17:26.482-07:00A few winter photos<br />
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It looks like summer in the pictures but it was close to freezing and had to break through thin ice getting out of the marina. </div>
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Cold days are cozy with the heater and hot tea. </div>
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The attentive reader will notice the scrub brush on the cabin roof above and wonder if I use it on the deck which is of course no! It is for the anchor and the deck gets a gentle clean with a 3m red scrub pad in a circular motion with salt water and a little bit of dish soap a couple of times a year. </div>
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A good no nonsense product in a day where there is a lot of nonsense, is worth giving a mention. The heavy Carhartt rain jacket with neoprene inner cuffs is pretty darn good for West Coast weather and a fraction of the cost of anything "marine". Hood could be a bit better but there it is. </div>
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Sewed a sunbrella cover for the varnished bulwark cap. Tricky to find a way to secure it but could use chainplates and other places and a few discrete brass pad eyes located on the inner bulwark and outboard under the rub rail. </div>
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<br />Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-51700897699015703112018-09-29T00:05:00.000-07:002018-09-29T00:06:20.960-07:00September photosSome photos of a two week trip in the Gulf Islands late September.<br />
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Mt Baker in the back ground. </div>
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A grey windy day and somewhat exposed anchorage but no problems</div>
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looking up Fulford Harbour, Saltspring Island from Russel Island</div>
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Oil anchor lamp burns all night</div>
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When at anchor or mooring a snubber line from a block at the cranze iron keeps the mooring can away from the bobstay</div>
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The initial run issues with the Buhk engine injection pump have been sorted and there were no issues with the engine.</div>
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September is great, few boats out, cooler but wonderful weather, just a great time to explore home waters which can be busy during summer.</div>
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Met up with SV Moon Raven, another 34ft Falmouth Cutter. the owner and Bryan from Channel Cutter yachts were just starting their voyage to Hawaii. It was great fun to see them and have both boats together. Unfortunately my lousy phone camera did not capture a good imagine of the two boats together,</div>
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Crocker designed SV Macaw at the same anchorage and we all had a wonderful visit and time.</div>
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Added the thimbles at the fwd lower shroud for the lifeline. A nice little job to do at anchor.</div>
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Made the boarding step for getting in and out of the dinghy. Bare red cedar with foam and canvas bumper bronze ring nailed around the edge</div>
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<br />Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-14873838938914506002018-09-13T21:35:00.002-07:002018-09-13T21:35:43.905-07:00Bowsprit Net<br />
Made the bowsprit net and bowsprit cover. The cover is the usual Sunbrella canvas and leather. It just covers the varnished portion and has a "cap" to go over the end of the bowsprit.<br />
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The bowsprit net is 7/16" New England Rope 3 strand vintage Dacron as is the life lines, canvas lines and other lines other than sheets and halyards which are plain white 1/2" New England three strand Dacron. I lashed the net with No. 21 tarred seine twine. It is a smaller diameter and good for these small lashings. The fore and aft lines are spliced to Port Townsend Foundry pad eyes at the bulwark.<br />
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Cover and net complete.</div>
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That chain bobstay is temporary as I wait to get the spliced one.</div>
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Fore and aft lines are seized around a bronze thimble.</div>
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Pad eyes at the bulwark. </div>
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Bowsprit cover is in two pieces and tied together. Will save a bit of work in maintenance. </div>
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<br />Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-76670343896818933962018-09-07T23:48:00.000-07:002018-09-07T23:48:16.227-07:00The first sailA first test trip out with a borrowed albeit small Jenniker which gave us a really nice sail after all. Everything went super smooth and I went out in the inflatable to see Astrid out on the water for the first time. It was a truly amazing day and hard to put words to.<br />
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<span id="goog_1787401636"></span><span id="goog_1787401637"></span><br />Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-54321765418087569292018-09-07T23:32:00.005-07:002018-09-07T23:32:46.449-07:00AwningsI sewed Sunbrelle canvas awnings for Astrid to help keep the summer sun off.<br />
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<br />Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-12677274079991727292018-09-07T23:27:00.000-07:002018-09-13T21:39:01.030-07:00DetailsA lot of small jobs to do after getting the rig up. Here are a few...<br />
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Adding silicon bronze armour to the bowsprit to protect from the chain.</div>
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Mast wiring and fitting the cabin sole boards around the mast.<br />
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The Plath windlass needs a chain stripper. Fabricated out of 1/4" bronze plate.</div>
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Chain stripper installed. Has a lanyard hole for the chain hawse cover.</div>
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For some reason the Plath windlass handle was not only very short but also painted steel, not even galvanized. Here is a new stainless steel one.</div>
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A piece of the vast amount of rigging detail work.</div>
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The inner neoprene mast boot. </div>
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Outer mast boot</div>
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Black locust cleat for courtesy flag halyard</div>
<br />Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-39384138495233214072018-08-23T22:57:00.002-07:002018-09-07T23:50:12.862-07:00BoomAfter the rigging was in place the next job was to install the hardware on the boom. The boom was made last summer and it is solid sitka spruce as here we want the extra weight. Two halves glued up with the glue line vertically orientated.<br />
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The boom end casting. I made the pattern split with a 3" core. The PTF star was added on after casting.</div>
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Here the boom end is installed. One 1/2" bronze rod that also acts as an axle for the two sheaves holds the fitting on. The boom end was treated with the usual creosote varnish mix before the fitting was bedded on.</div>
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Black locust fairleads treated with linseed oil for the various lines. </div>
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Anatomy of the reefing cheek blocks. I had the outer cheek cast, the inner plate is 1/8" bronze plate, the eye was cast and threaded onto the 1/2" rod and then TIG welded on for a seamless finish. The curved washer is 1/8" bronze cut out with a hole saw and hammered into shape. The #12 x 2" screw spacers I machined out of 3/8" bronze rod and the sheave was bought from R&W Rope. I had to drill the sheave out for 1/2" on the lathe. The acorn nut was bought from Port Townsend Foundry. So here you can see the number of steps and pieces all to make one piece of hardware. Now times that by how many bits on the boat.....?</div>
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The goose neck straps. I also made the pattern for these split and with a core so the inside faces would be flat and easier to fit to the boom. Four 1/2" flat head machine screws alternating fasten the straps to the boom. </div>
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<br />Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-91960767846083228562018-08-21T00:30:00.001-07:002018-09-08T23:38:42.424-07:00DinghyA step back in time as I finished this project last summer but never got around to posting it. The 7ft Cherub dinghy from Cape George Cutters was bought as a bare shell. I fitted out the gunwales, Seats and made the oars.<br />
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I used Silver Bali for the gunwales which had to be steamed into place. Cedar was used for the seats to keep the weight down. The dinghy is quite light, beamy and rows well. I added Dacron covered gunwale guard all around.<br />
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Douglas fir oars with sewn leather collars.</div>
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<br />Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-68387282351855442072018-08-21T00:26:00.000-07:002018-09-13T22:07:21.222-07:00Thank YouWith the main part of the work nearing completion on ASTRID I want to acknowledge the help I have had along the way. This was a huge project, it was satisfying to see a vision fulfilled, I learned a lot of new things and met a lot of new people many of whom are now very good friends. These boats seem to attract good people. The project was also at times all consuming, exhausting and required a large measure of determination to keep at it day after day. So without some help now and again it would have been that much harder and my deepest thanks goes to all.<br />
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My Father who helped out so may times with small and large scale jobs where a second hand was necessary. The deck, bulwarks and rudder to name a few where his skilled work made the job possible and easier. Without having grown up learning from him this boat would probably not have been.<br />
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Craig Johnson who is a very good friend and who's own Schooner MAGIC was a huge inspiration for ASTRID. Craig's refined eye for detail has left finger prints all over this boat with so many details from MAGIC living on here. His work on the design drawings and his generous and continual support with technical questions and sage advice along the way were immensely important, and always a source for renewing my energy and focus.<br />
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Bryan Gittens (Channel Cutter Yachts). Bryan's experience, humour and philosophical outlook on life have been a continual source of inspiration. His help was far above generous and if I ever needed to gain inspiration and energy to keep going a visit with Bryan always made me feel ready to tackle the next bit.<br />
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Barry Hack. A number of times my friend Barry, who is a sailor, skilled machinist and fellow teacher helped me with metal machining and fabrication a number of times. His positive and generous nature is always uplifting.<br />
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Richard Belieze. Who I have known since my days of working at Waterline Yachts and who sprayed the Awlgrip hull and helped with the boot stripe.<br />
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John Stone. We have both gotten inspiration from each others projects and John's help in the last three weeks of the mast project was absolutely critical. It would not be an exaggeration to say the mast would probably not have gotten stepped this summer if not for his incredibly generous help. We worked non-stop for three weeks together, had a great time and John is responsible for splicing ASTRID's rigging. The rig looks amazing and he has my deepest thanks.<br />
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Others I say Thank You to are:<br />
Achinback Foundry<br />
Myle Thurlow Rigging<br />
Port Townsend Foundry<br />
Strait Metal Custom Metal Fabrication<br />
Robert and Jean at Abernethy and Gaudin Boat Builders<br />
No one truly works alone and those visitors and passerby's who gave encouragement and support all meant something.<br />
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<br />Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-62720681862926187802018-08-20T23:35:00.000-07:002018-09-13T22:07:53.203-07:00RiggingWith the mast stepped we could start on the rigging. The schedule went as follows:<br />
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1. Four Lower Spreaders<br />
2. Upper Intermediates<br />
3. Cap Shrouds<br />
4. Head Stay and Back Stay<br />
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I would go up the mast and pin the shroud or stay in place and with light tension John would mark the wire as it lines up with the top of the thimble. I would un-pin it and the shroud or stay would be brought back to the shop for splicing. Next day those spliced would be installed and the next ones would be measured. It took five days of up and down the mast and splicing and the head and back stay were installed on John's last day here. The rig was finally up minus the forestay which I plan on a synthetic removable stay. John has a system he uses on FAR REACH and can be seen here: <a href="https://farreachvoyages.wordpress.com/2017/10/23/a-new-forestay-release-device/">FAR REACH Forestay release Design</a> or explore a bronze pelican hook or hyfield lever. I have to figure it out.<br />
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John splicing. </div>
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Lashing spreader tips</div>
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Upper Intermediates</div>
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<br />Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-48191759592058357462018-08-20T00:06:00.002-07:002018-08-20T23:18:24.075-07:00Stepping the MastThe mast was sitting where we built it at Abernethy and Gaudin Boat Builders. There was no way to step it there so the only option was to motor down and load it onto the deck of Astrid and bring it back up to Sidney. We also had a tight timeline to get everything done, collect the mast and get a crane. It had to be done by end of week. We headed down to Brentwood Tuesday afternoon. We got in late that day and rafted up to a big schooner being worked on by A&G. Some nice rum finished off the day.<br />
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Lashing down saw horses onto fore deck. </div>
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Next morning we lined the boat up to the dock with no time to spare with a falling tide and hand loaded the mast with help from everyone including recruited onlookers. </div>
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We were underway by noon and back into Canoe Cove by late afternoon. The mast crane was booked for the high tide on Friday morning. It gave us one day to sort out halyards, fit spreaders, chop the mast step mortise and other details. We worked until 0200 and up again at 0600 to install the spreaders and head over to Tsehum Harbour.</div>
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We tied up to the public dock which gives a close reach for the crane. A study of opposites with the MacGregor next to Astrid. Serg from Blackline Marine managed the mast stepping expertly. </div>
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The mast gets lifted off Astid</div>
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The mast was set back on the saw horses and we ran all the halyards and lines we planned on using to stay the mast until wire rigging was put up. The crane is about to lift the mast. Serge knew exactly how to sling the mast and how to direct the crane who's operator was very good. I just had to give the mast the slightest nudge and it dropped into the mortise.</div>
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Guiding the mast through the deck opening </div>
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The mast step mortise. There is a drain hole of course and a copper English 2 pence piece (there is a story...)</div>
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Two tired guys.( L-R John, Kaj ). There had been a lot of hurdles to overcome and a lot of hard work. Getting the mast stepped was a really big milestone and a huge relief. Lunch and a nap was in order before heading out on a falling tide and getting back to work. </div>
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Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-65185985761773427932018-08-19T23:25:00.000-07:002018-08-20T23:37:02.973-07:00Mast Part IIIMid Month July. I have a pile of hardware, most of the pieces I need, but basically it all has to come together. Easier said than done but I have help now with my good friend John who has flown out here to help. First haul out. Astrid needs to have a fresh coat of bottom paint, will varnish the transom and take care of lower rigging details. It's a quick round trip.<br />
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Fresh bottom paint</div>
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Double jaw toggle for bobstay. 3/4" pin. </div>
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Transom with a fresh coat of varnish. </div>
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The splicing thimbles needed drilling. 5/8" pin. Made a simple clamping jig for the drill press. De-burr with a countersink bit. </div>
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The internal track needed drilling and countersinking. Drilled for a #10 screw every 4".</div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">John started splicing the lower rigging, 'sprit shrouds and boomkin stays while work continued getting the hardware ready on the mast. Splices look awesome. </span></div>
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Chopping the bowsprit mortise in the purple heart samson post. The bowsprit tenon and the mortise got a number of coats of creosote and thinned varnish. </div>
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Bowsprit and anchor roller installed. </div>
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The chain bobstay is temporary until a 1/2" 7x7 spliced wire one replaces it. </div>
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The boomkin stays are installed. The first rigging is on the boat !</div>
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Deck light and upper turning block for spinnaker pole track</div>
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Upper spreader bases. A combination of tang work and castings. Steaming light above.</div>
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Through bolts are 5/8" Nickle Aluminum Bronze with wide base nuts from Port Townsend Foundry</div>
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Lower spreader bases and shroud tangs</div>
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The mast head is installed with delrin sheave in a silicon bronze sheave box. </div>
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By now John has spliced all the upper end of the wires and the next task is to collect the mast from Brentwood Bay and bring it up to Sidney to step it. </div>
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Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-35252758209389933392018-08-18T23:24:00.000-07:002018-08-18T23:24:20.970-07:00Mast Hardware Part II The first half of July was full time 'round the clock work finishing the mast hardware, fitting hardware, shaping and sanding the boom, varnishing everything and making sure the myriad of details and pieces where all coming together.<br />
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An obstacle in making this happen had been the turnbuckles. I needed 14 x 5/8" Turnbuckles and new they would have been prohibitively expensive. It took three quarters of a year but I managed to find Merriman turnbuckles and toggles in good used or new-old-stock condition through trading, EBay and a used Marine Chandlery in California. They ended costing a quarter of the new cost. I machined new clevis pins for all the connections.<br />
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Again, once I looked up the price for a 5/8" clevis pin and multiplied it by the number I needed (a lot!) I had no choice but get some 316 stainless rod and make them on the metal lathe. I used aluminum- nickle-bronze clevis pins at the waterline for the boomkin stay and bobstay toggles.<br />
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A big pile of bronze hardware. There are a ton of details and all the pieces have to come together. </div>
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The goose neck assembly almost all together.<br />
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You might be able to see the black delrin bushings I machined between the pivoting points of the goose neck assembly.<br />
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The outhaul. A lot of machining here and some grateful help from my friend Barry who volunteered to machine the track. It turned out really well, .... perhaps perfect.</div>
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Fitting the anchor roller to the bowsprit. The roller assembly clamps around the bowsprit so there are no bolts drilled through the sprit. The axle for the rollers passes underneath the sprit. This also acts as the tang for the forestay.</div>
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The upper spreader tangs are fitted and ready for TIG welding together. The mast head got multiple coats of creosote and thinned varnish before final installation</div>
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Mast head welded and ready for installation</div>
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Shaping the spreaders out of Douglas Fir</div>
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Spreader tips in solid bronze through bolted with 10-24 machine screws tapped into a bottom plate.<br />
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The Mast at Abernethy and Gaudin Boat Builders. The next weeks were a marathon of fitting the hardware and getting varnish on it.<br />
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The boom had been made last summer but was still rough shaped. It had to be sanded down, black locust risers glued on for the reefing cheek blocks, track riser glued on and ends fitted to the goose neck straps and boom end casting.<br />
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I had to get the mast track, 7x7 316 stainless wire, fasteners and thimbles and other pieces from Port Townsend Foundry. The brass Davey 1" internal track came from R&W Rope. Sourcing the 7x7 wire was a worry but Myles Thurlow (Rigging) out of Vineyard Haven, MA pulled through and 550 ft of 3/8" 7x7 wire was shipped to P.T on time. I had priced out other options including Sta-Lok but the wire and thimbles for spliced rigging was half the price and has other advantages including looking really good on a traditional boat. Pete Langley at Port Townsend Foundry really pulled through with some last minute work which I am very grateful for. Mid July I drove over with the Black Ball Ferry from Victoria to Port Angeles to bring it all back. Just in time for my friend John Stone to arrive who was to help me for the next three weeks getting the mast on the boat and rigged.Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-88838343299143720312018-08-18T00:24:00.001-07:002018-08-25T23:49:43.274-07:00Mast Hardware Part I This has been a busy year to say the least. Working full time, had a large side job to do on another Falmouth Cutter 34 and a new born boy as of end of January. I finished the FC34 side job end of May and started on mast hardware early June. I had patterned it during the winter and had it cast locally. Once I collected the rough castings I had the remaining part of June to make use of the metal shop at the High School where I taught woodshop this year to do all the machining. So late days working after hours trying to get it all done by end of term not to mention the usual work wrapping up a school year, taking care of the shop, ordering, marking, cleaning up etc.<br />
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Some of the casting patterns</div>
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A pile of rough Everdur silicone bronze castings from Achinback Foundry</div>
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I used flapper discs from 40 grit to fine surface prep discs to finish the castings. The fine surface prep disc's left the castings so smooth that only a bit of buffing was required and I did not bother on some.<br />
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Facing and drilling eye bolts</div>
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Milling the outhaul car</div>
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Drilling the mast bands for the goose neck. Beautiful old Swedish geared drill press.<br />
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A lot of threading. A good tap and die set is essential. The ones you find in the hardware stores are a very bad joke. I have two old sets of of Greenfield "Little Gaint" Tap and Dies from 1/4" to 1". I highly recommend them. The cutters are adjustable and they have a built in guide so they cut straight down the rod. Here on the mast I wanted to thread a certain grip length and have no extra thread. Normally when your cutting threads there is a tapered entry and the nut will not go on all the way. By flipping the die holder and running the cutter back down the thread I could get a full cut right to my stopping point. </div>
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Needed over 50x 316 stainless steel clevis pins. My friend Barry helped me and together we knocked them off in a morning but had I bought them they would ridiculously expensive. </div>
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Bending the 3/16" mast tangs in the press. </div>
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Rivited the tangs together with 10-24 round head machine screws before drilling the pin holes. That way everything lines up. Cut the tangs out on the bandsaw and quick work with the disc and belt sander had them all made one evening. </div>
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Tangs all drilled.</div>
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Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-81742448677058789942017-09-16T23:21:00.003-07:002017-10-07T15:49:45.737-07:00Spars Part III The MastThe main job to do this summer was to get the mast built which we did in the last two weeks of August and into early September. I had acquired the Sitka Spruce spar wood over ten years ago through Eden Saw Woods in Port Townsend. It came from <span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Haida Gwaii and the lengths were between 30 and 40 plus feet. It was beautiful wood, clear and tight grained. I felt it had to be honoured.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">The first job was to plane it to thickness before transporting to Abernethy and Gaudin Boat Builders in Brentwood Bay here on the Saanich Peninsula. I decided in order to keep within my time frame and due to the scale of the job and length of the wood I would need a hand to get this last big job done on the boat. When I approached Jean Gaudin about working with him to build it he was just putting the final touched on a box section spar about 47ft long. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">Abernethy and Gaudin Boat Builders work mainly with traditional boatwork in a real old time boat shop in Brentwood bay equipped with a marine railway. This summer they just finished a total rebuild of the English Pilot cutter Carlotta.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><a href="http://www.agboats.com/">http://www.agboats.com/</a></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">This turned out to be a great way to get the job done. It was great to work with Jean and his experience meant the job went efficiently and accurately. </span></span></span><br />
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It would be a hollow round mast built of four staves like a box. The aft and forward stave would be full width. The spar is 53ft 2in long and 7 1/4" diameter.<br />
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Planning the mast wood before transporting it up to A&G. I had the space to pass the 40ft lengths through the planer</div>
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The first job was to lay out the boards and decide what boards would be used where. We just managed to get all four sides with only one scarf per side. Not bad for a 53ft spar ! Next we built and leveled up a spar bench. </div>
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Once the scarfs were cut with a circular saw, hand planed and glued we could cut the staves to width. Then we could layout for hollowing. Jean had a great technique using the circular saw and a small blade where he made passes at an angle to hollow. Just like you do on a table saw but here your passing the saw over the wood not the other way around. All we had to do was clean up with the hollowing plane and make the transitions with a gouge.</div>
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We built the mast with the aft stave down as that would be straight, the sides and fwd stave would be tapered. The aft stave basically became the spar bench once glued up.</div>
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Jean using the circular saw to cut the hollows. This saved a lot of time and work. Been hot and sunny but really nice to work outside.</div>
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The hollowing transitioned to square where the red cedar blocking goes at the spreaders. Here the sides are dry clamped to the aft stave for fitting blocking and checking the fit. The side staves were cut with the circular saw, one edge was trued up with a jointer plane and then we planed it to final width through the Makita portable planer taking multiple passes. We ended up with fair edges that only needed minor adjustments to get a perfect fit for gluing.</div>
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Gluing the two side staves to the aft stave. We used 115 clamps. We left the aft stave full width and sprung in the side staves to our marks for the taper. Once the glue had cured we trimmed off the excess of the aft stave sticking out. </div>
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Now we tapered and faired the side staves above the upper spreaders, added the conduit, ran wired for lights and tin foil for radar reflector. A test fit of the fwd stave and we were ready for sealing and gluing.</div>
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Glued up and square. It looks very heavy right now. The gluing went very well, nice glue joints everywhere. We used System Three G2 Epoxy.</div>
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Eight sided and starting to get lighter and look more like a mast. This is fun work.<br />
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Sixteen sided above the deck.</div>
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Knocking the corners off the 16 sides to 32</div>
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Final rounding with the handplane. Next is to sand which Jean did the next day with a belt and drum attachment on the feather edger.</div>
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Sanded and silver bali track riser glued on, mast head built up and shaped and winch blocks glued on. First coat of varnish will be Epifanis varnish thinned over 50% with turpentine. Thanks to Jean and Robert for helping me get this job done. It really feel great to see the spar built and my next big job is to start making all the bronze hardware which I will do over the winter. Hoping to rig in the spring.</div>
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Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-35960516648813140362017-09-16T23:20:00.002-07:002017-09-16T23:20:45.190-07:00Spars Part IINext came the boom and I also needed to make a boat hook and oars for the dinghy.<br />
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The boom is solid for the weight and glued up in two halves of Sitka Spruce. No scarfs required, I had a length of Sitka long enough to make the 19ft boom</div>
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Making the round tapered boom is pretty straightforward. </div>
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The boat hook tapered and eight sided </div>
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The oars eight sided and ready for final shaping</div>
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Finished oars and boat hook</div>
Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-16967770615277508212017-09-16T23:09:00.000-07:002017-09-16T23:09:54.829-07:00Spars Part IIt was a long winters work after launching the boat and my list of jobs on Astrid for the summer was long. Top priority was to get the spars built and to warm up I started with the bowsprit and boom. After a very long rainy winter we have had a great summer so the weather really co-operated with outside spar work.<br />
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The wood for the bowsprit is Douglas fir I have seasoned for about 10 years. I had spent a couple of days watching fir getting milled up before finding this piece of rift sawn tight grained clear fir. I was very careful air drying it and there was no cracks.<br />
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Tapered and eight sided with the cranze iron fitted.<br />
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Shaping complete. The sections that have a brownish finish will be painted. The sealer I applied is varnish with turpentine with a splash of creosote<br />
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<br />Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-73055107642861849272017-09-16T22:54:00.001-07:002017-09-16T22:54:06.417-07:00Dodger<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Finally got to making the pram dodger this sumer. It took longer to sew than I anticipated with lots of fitting trails. All in all pleased with the outcome and really happy to see a bronze frame and not stainless. </div>
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The attachment is with #10 round head bronze machine screws through a brass grommet in the canvas and into the cast diamonds that have a threaded hole. I posted those casting photos earlier. The result is a clean and unobtrusive attachment that will not break.<br />
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The dodger is tensioned with the 3/16" cord and to fold the dodger down and out of the way it is simply to undo those tension lashings.Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-6155457565300794532017-09-16T22:39:00.001-07:002017-09-16T22:39:09.492-07:00Buhk Motor InstallationI thought I ought to post some photos of the 36hp Buhk motor installation. To access I just lift off the companionway ladders and lift the engine box lid which folds back and hooks in place. The front and side drop boards lift away to give great access to the motor. It only takes a minute or two.<br />
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The equipment area is under the cockpit which is open to the port quarter storage area. Easy access and still lots of space for organized storage. On the bulkhead is mounted the exhaust, Racor fuel water separator and reservoir for the drip-less shaft seal. A 4in vent provides air to the bilge. A few computer fans keep air flowing and draw nothing and are quiet.</div>
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The electrical distribution panel and solar controller and Blue Seas Batter charger / ACR mounted on the forward bulkhead under the cockpit. Everything easy to see.</div>
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I did not like the looks of the plastic control panel that came with the motor. Buhk also wanted $1500 for their gauge panel so I made my own with the components from the stock panel and VDO gauges. I mounted it on the side of the engine box as you come down the companionway. Out of sight, out of the weather and certainly quick enough to start the motor when you need it.</div>
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<br />Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-52348668522567273402017-02-19T20:53:00.000-08:002017-02-19T20:53:44.348-08:00Keeping warm in a cold winter<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It has been quite a lousy winter here. Rain, snow, sleet and a damp bitter cold. That's the coast for you but I will take dry sunny -20C any day over this. So getting the heater finally running was on the top of the to-do list. I had the 5Gallon/20L aluminum tank made by Straight Metal and installed it on the bulkhead in the starboard lazarette locker. The kerosene is gravity fed to the heater. There is an inline filter below the shut off valve. </div>
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The fill for the kerosene is in the lazarette propane locker. Made a small bronze L bracket for the fill.</div>
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The heater on it's first run. Have it pretty dialed in now and can run it on a low even blue flame. Pre-heat with alcohol and introduce the kerosene shortly after lighting. No fans or pumps, runs quiet and clean and warms up the boat really well. </div>
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Managed to do a bit of sewing. Made the cockpit awning. Next jobs to finish are the dodger and dinghy. Time is tight right now with work but hopefully as spring gets here I can spend a bit of time getting to some of the unfinished jobs.<br />
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<br />Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-12113662145458798692016-12-01T22:53:00.001-08:002017-02-19T20:55:10.110-08:00The Launch Wednesday was the launch. Had to finish splicing the life lines, hang the rudder and a few little things. The launch was scheduled for 1400 but then the marina yard staff asked if we could launch at 1530 as they had a big haul out to do right after us and at 1530 we could take our time being the last launch. Perfect. A few phone calls and some time to eat. The weather had turned to rain and wind and was not looking good. I won't wax lyrical about a wet launch here on the west coast because truth be told I really do not like rain. But like magic the weather broke and it dried up and even the sun came out a bit. It became a lovely evening and night. By Thursday it was back to rain so it really was very fortunate for the weather.<br />
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On the travel lift</div>
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A few words and a shared toast of port with friends who gratefully showed up. A splash of port on the stem and for the ocean and she was on her way</div>
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First touch of the ocean.</div>
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Floating and a bit high in the bow as she should be since there is no mast, bowsprit or ground tackle.</div>
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At the travel lift dock. Am very pleased with how she looks and her lines.</div>
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At the tiller with my mother. Was pleased with the rudder and response.</div>
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A great break in the weather and a beautiful evening.</div>
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Pusher boat with grateful help from friends.</div>
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Floating at her slip. A little nerve wracking docking her without being familiar yet with how she handles but luckily we had lots of room and help.</div>
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Set up a crutch and boom so we could have a tarp over the cockpit and need to get sewing the canvas work</div>
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Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-80516102648067497142016-12-01T22:28:00.000-08:002016-12-01T22:28:07.137-08:00Boat MoveTime for the boat to come out of the shed. The boat was scheduled to move Monday so was busy the last week working full nights doing bottom paint, tiller and a whole host of details on the boat. Sunday the front of the shop was torn away and everything in the way moved to the side. By Monday morning all was ready and in the hands of the moving company. However, it was a difficult driveway and the main trailer could not make it up to the shed. So by the end of Monday they had managed to move a smaller trailer into position to be ready for Tuesday. This fall October and November have seen a lot of rain. It poured all weekend and then Monday was sunny. Tuesday dawned cloudy and the rain held off. So far lucky.<br />
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The plan was to move the boat on the small trailer down the driveway to the road and then block her up and transfer her to a bigger trailer in order to take her the hour drive to the marina.<br />
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Ready to move. Nice to see her from a distance.</div>
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Loaded and ready to come out of the shed. It was nice to see her in natural day light and from further away. The self-critical eye of this builder was to first think of how she looked and if it was a success. Next was to worry about getting her safely down but she was in very experienced hands.</div>
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First good view. On the road and ready to be blocked up and transferred to the big trailer</div>
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On the big trailer and ready for the road. Not a scratch.</div>
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Heading down the Hi-way. Weather holding!</div>
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Blocked up in the marina and looking a lot smaller than in the workshop.</div>
Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11498686090137863.post-31937217357987910102016-12-01T22:05:00.000-08:002016-12-01T22:30:16.273-08:00Interior PhotosWe did a interior photo shoot with a good camera and lenses last week. Here is a (large) selection. All photo credits to my good friend Alex Mattews.<br />
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<br />Kaj Jakobsenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08883460294890093751noreply@blogger.com2