Busy with may jobs now. It is not just woodworking anymore but jumping from mechanical to electrical to plumbing to hardware and even more woodworking. Many hours spent at the workbench researching specs, figuring things out and on the phone ordering so that various items arrive or are made in time for work to progress without delay. A lot of jobs are 90% done but waiting for some last item or me to get to it.
Soldered some 2" copper pipe into the through deck outlet for the the bilge pump. Made the strap clamp from bronze.
Bilge pump outlet installed and tucked under the taffrail. Fits perfectly between the knee and the boomkin.
Tucked out of sight behind the bulkhead aft of the galley stove is the bilge pump handle for the Edson Bronze 30GPM pump in some black locust brackets.
Needed a clam shell vent but could only find one in stainless steel. Made a male-female mould by carving the shape in a piece of hardwood and making the mating piece with thickened epoxy. Squeezing a piece of copper between them in a large metal vise and then some trimming made a perfectly serviceable vent cover.
Tank vent copper tubing passing through the boom gallows base. A series of 1/8" holes are drilled in the gallows tubing a couple of inches below the top of the vent tube as seen in the picture below.
Bronze water deckfill set flush to the deck.
The RC Plath windlass was drilled for 3/8" bolts but I wanted to install with 1/2" bolts. I filed the holes bigger but favouring the inside so to leave the maximum amount of metal around the outer part of the base.
There is a bronze deck plate that is bedding to the deck and the 1/2" carriage bolts come through the deck as four mounting studs for the windlass. That way it is easily removable for greasing and maintenance.
The quarter inch thick bronze backing plate with copper chain pipes. I can clamp 2" bilge hose to the copper pipe to direct the chain and keep splash to a minimum.
My patterns and returned castings from Achinback Foundry. Pintle and Gungeons, misc backing plates, dodger hardware, dinghy chock cleats, taff rail block pad eyes.
Drilling the 6" Herreshoff cleats. I needed cleats for the dinghy chocks but had trouble finding some so instead had some cast from a old cleat I had servicing as a door handle to the workshop
Dinghy chocks installed and also serving to tie the lanyard for the backup oil nav lamps. Cold bent some 1/8" bronze for the oil lamp retainers.
Davey oil lamp in place. They are bright and effective.
Cockpit drains installed.
Cockpit drain though hull with a rubber flapper attached.
Schatz Royal clock and barometer. I like the clock chimes.
Cockpit drain though hull with a rubber flapper attached.
Schatz Royal clock and barometer. I like the clock chimes.
Main Blue Seas 10 position Distribution panel and Victron battery monitor. The bronze switch plate on the side of the panel box controls the two lights here in the port quarter storage area. One on the side of the cockpit and one under the cockpit floor in the equipment area. I positioned the panel here right around the corner as you come under the cockpit so it is has easy access, is out of sight and well protected.
The Italian lights that are used on bulkheads and deckhead (Davey lamps on cabin roof) came as a project like I need another thing to do. Had to take apart and drill mounting holes and drill and wire for a Cole Hersee toggle switch.
On both side of the boat are two deckhead lights that take a LED filament bulb that is a very warm lightand as good as any regular bulb but only draw 0.5 amp.
Side of cockpit as you enter the storage and equipment area.
Same type of guarded vapour proof light on forward side of sail locker bulkhead. In these exposed areas I used asphaltic loom and copper straps for a traditional look that is also durable. More on wiring later.
Finally got to making the ice box insert. Made from 3mm marine ply stitch and glue epoxy construction and filled with 4" of blue styrofoam. Glassed over with cloth and epoxy and painted. Very light to lift.
The handle is a piece of tubular webbing held with finish washers and screws. I put a 12mm ply backing plate under the 3mm plywood for the screws to have something to go into before putting on the lid and glassing over.
The insert has a hollow gasket that sits on the teak flange. Seems like a lot of photos for such a simple thing but it did in fact take some time to make!
